Samichlaus and Schmutzli

One of the loveliest things about having a little one (other than not being in gainful employment and dressing her in animal-themed outfits) is building family traditions together. We can’t wait until she’s old enough for Easter Egg hunts (and Easter Nests, my family tradition where you tart up a box and fill it with shredded paper in which, on Easter Sunday, the Easter Bunny lays its delicious chocolate eggs. Yeah, I am aware there are lots of flaws with this concept but it apparently kept us quiet), camping trips, hopefully our annual ‘sisters October long weekend’ (a dismal failure after only one installation) and of course Christmas, the latter made even more exciting by her birthday occurring five days prior.

Last year’s Christmas Day was surreal. She was five days old and we were shell shocked. We’d left the hospital two days previously, unsure why we were allowed to leave with a small human who we didn’t know or know what to do with, and we’d barely slept or eaten since (nor had she, due to a undiagnosed sucking problem and tongue / lip tie). My best friend – her Guidefather – was hosting a Christmas lunch which we’d made tentative plans to attend, depending on whether we were coping or not. If it was anyone else in the world I would have cancelled and eaten frozen lasagne seasoned with my own tears however we put her in the car seat for the second time ever and made our way across town for a lovely lunch with very tolerant friends. That afternoon, both sets of grandparents arrived at our place with the fixings for Christmas dinner but by then things had deteriorated. She was hungry and couldn’t feed, and it was anything but a silent night as Tim and I sat at one end of the house with a screaming baby while our folks ate their dinner and cleaned our kitchen at the other. In the midst of the newborn haze, all festive cheer was forgotten.

This year we’re hoping to make up for it. Christmas has definitely descended on Lucerne. The town is lit up with sparkly lights that reflect across the lake. The old town’s fountains are dressed up – some as advent wreaths, some as candles, some with nativity scenes. There’s a building that has turned its windows into an advent calendar. There are Christmas markets, with a scented cloud of spices and wurst hovering above them. There’s an outdoor iceskating rink next to the lake, surrounded by glittering fir trees, with carols drifting through the chilly winter air. There are glühwein stands everywhere (I enjoyed a cup while doing my grocery shopping earlier this evening, only spilling a small amount on the baby). I love it here.

Today is St Niklaus Day, which in Switzerland is the day that the dude we know as Santa visits (it’s the Christkind aka the Christchild aka Baby Jesus who delivers the gifts on Christmas Eve). Here, though, Santa is known as Samichlaus and he does not come alone. He has a trusty sidekick, dressed in a black coat sporting a beard and carrying a bundle of sticks, named Schmutzli. The dynamic duo fly no deer but trudge through the snow with a donkey and visit nervous children to determine whether they have been good or not. If they have, the children traditionally receive nuts, gingerbread and tangerines (and more recently, small toys) from jolly Samichlaus’ bulging sack; if not, they are beaten with surly Schmutzli’s sticks and kidnapped in his empty sack. Children recite a poem (not an option for our girl, whose language skills extend to calling everything electronic ‘Dad’. Given how nerdy Tim is that’s unsurprising I guess, but does not make for good poetry recitals) and promise to be good for the following year. Kids put their boots outside the door on the night prior to St Niklaus Day, and hope for treats.

Despite not being in the position to beg repentance for all those sleepless nights, our cowgirl decided to try her luck.

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She must have been good, because there was no beating and no kidnapping, and instead a ridiculous pair of snowman tights that will be worn every day this silly season.

Of course, bright and early this morning, I was a little more excited than she was about our overnight visitors, but she nonetheless rose to the occasion. She tried her first gingerbread (a sugar fuelled success, of course) and smashed her best fruit, a tangerine, for breakfast. And those tights went on immediately.

We’ve got a road trip to Germany today and I suspect will live to regret dosing her up on refined sugar this early, however it’s her first St Nick’s Day, so what could we do? Get behind the sugary Christmas spirit, is what.

Another Swiss tradition is that Christmas trees get put up on Christmas Eve (along with gift giving and, apparently, fondue bourguignon). For a Christmas enthusiast that felt a little drawn out; I was delighted, then, to wake one morning to find my own Samichlaus delight.

One Man's Trash 0016 - 20151130-2A few branches found in the bin room (he insists subsequently washed), some lights from home and on the top a happy character made out of afore mentioned snowman tights packaging and voila: a pre-tree tree courtesy of McMotsy.  I actually screeched with Christmas delight, and Laidey has been feasting on the fronds ever since. At least they are sugar free, and road trip friendly.

 

Hands down

Things got pretty ridiculous pretty quickly this week, winter wise.Engelberg 0037 - 20151129There was a definite festive feeling. Tim had the first of his Christmas parties: he went to Germany on Friday night and arrived back in Zurich on Saturday considerably shadier. Neighbouring apartments and businesses have started hanging Christmas lights – a glimpse out of any of our windows is guaranteed to reveal golden twinkly stars, angels or trees. And my contribution? Eating all the Christmas snacks. Yup, they’re a thing and yup, they’re gingery and delicious.

I also had my first spousal work support meeting. Part of our relocation agreement included a ‘find a new gig in Switzerland’ package, through which I have been allocated an agency to manage my transition back to the workforce. We’d teleconferenced prior to leaving Australia and I’d sent my CV to them; since arriving I’ve had several conversations about my prospects. As I’ve mentioned before, I’m not sure what I want to do with myself (which, other than drinking all the wine and eating all the cheese, is nothing new) but my previous employment isn’t likely to be able to transfer over here. I knew this and am pleased about it – I’m ready for something new – but it turns out the most transferrable skill I have is quality management and assurance, which is second in dullness only to occupational health and safety. I was also told the average amount of time it takes to find a new job (for the Swiss and expats alike) is 9 months; I’m not sure how much of this was expectations management and how much was slack agency. I’m also not sure if I’m fussed – I’m still not sick of staying at home with my girl. Even though it can be terribly tedious some days (OK, every day, especially around meal time when my ancient body is bent over cleaning squooshed broccoli and berries off the floor yet again), I still love it. I feel like I shouldn’t, like I’m less of a professional or possibly even a person, because so many people I know have become listless or bored or itching to return to work (nobody says it or means it – or even thinks of it – that way as it’s an intensely personal thing) but nonetheless I know Pre Baby Wendy would judge Post Baby Wendy, and there we are. This Tiny Offspring Experience is nothing if not unexpected.

In between discussing CV styles (they like personal pictures here, and lists of hobbies) and potential employers (international companies primarily; I really need to take those German lessons) the best thing, hands down, to come out of the meeting was a recommendation to travel to Engelberg. About 40 minutes away without snow tyres, it was a winter wonderland. Engelberg 0056 - 20151129Engelberg 0036 - 20151129We’ve not had much to do with snow before (as was painfully clear based on last week’s enthusiastic post) and this just blew us away.Engelberg 0063 - 20151129

Engelberg 0035 - 20151129Engelberg 0050 - 20151129Engelberg 0054 - 20151129The town itself is small but its scope vast. Every now and then the clouds would part and Alps would reveal themselves, disturbingly sneaky for masses so enormous.

Engelberg is also home to a range of baby (and more advanced, but irrelevant to us) ski slopes. Irrelevant not because we have a small child, but because we’re not skiers (or indeed, in my case, even remotely coordinated). We wandered around, gingerly treading through the ankle deep snow, agreeing to return to try the uber-beginner-friendly slopes some time in the future.

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Snow days

We arrived in Switzerland during Autumn, and have been enjoying what is apparently an unusually warm season. Not being from a wintry country, we’re excited by the prospect of a snowy season, although I suspect – based on the looks I get from people in my mothers’ group when I express said excitement – we don’t know what we’re in for.

The forecast last weekend was for -9 and, excitingly, snow. The first flurry arrived on Saturday, although we initially thought it was fat, white rain. Which I suppose, in a way, it is.

First Snow Fall 0011 - 20151122We all watched, agape, as the flakes grew and whirled, and the mountains became increasingly white throughout the day. Some right on the horizon looked as though they had been covered thickly in icing sugar.First Snow Fall 0004 - 20151122The adults in the house would have preferred to lie on the couch and soak in the view however our wee boss had other ideas. After a day indoors on Saturday there was an epic case of cabin fever, so even though the snow hit Lucerne again on Sunday – this time a heavier shower that coloured all the nearby rooftops white – we decided to suck it up and get outside. A fortifying breakfast was in order (yeah, our little Swans bruiser is knocking back egg, bacon and beans. And looking to pick a fight while she’s at it. It was Sunday morning, right?!)First Snow Fall 0024 - 20151122We rugged up in pretty much all our clothing. Laidey appears to have no feet here, or to have sunk into an uber plush rug, but in fact her pants are just embarrassingly large. First Snow Fall 0084 - 20151122First Snow Fall 0092 - 20151122We made our way to the park at the end of our street. By the time we arrived most of the snow on the ground had melted, but the mountains around held it proudly (and allegedly will now until April). First Snow Fall 0107 - 20151122First Snow Fall 0094 - 20151122During Loz’s visit, she and I took a tour of Lucerne city, hearing about its medieval and dark ages history, as well as more recent information on voting (all the time and on all manner of matters, like whether to hang original art on the bridge or not). Of course the tour took us to one of the city’s most famous sites: the Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument). I decided to play tour guide for Tim and we made our way across town, huddling into our jackets against the snow (but still peering out of them enthusiastically to ooh and aah as we walked).

The monument is carved into a natural stone wall. It is dedicated to the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss, commemorating mercenaries who died protecting the French monarchy (our tour guide told the story that the French King was quite the coward, and fled the palace leaving the Swiss guard to certainly be slain behind him. He also said that Cowardly King did not make it, and was busted on the streets of Paris and beheaded). Mark Twain famously said of the lion that it is the ‘most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world’ (Adelaide certainly though so, if the tears were anything to go by. She clearly has an appreciation for history and sculpture as opposed to, say, being bored and cold and possibly hungry). First Snow Fall 0125 - 20151122The monument was paid for by many monarchies of Europe, all of which used Swiss mercenaries for their bodyguards. The pay, however, was not satisfactory and the sculptor was displeased. Rather than deface the monument itself, he instead carved a (definitely unrequested) pig in which the lion is dying. First Snow Fall 0129 - 20151122The snow started to fall again, so we legged it home to drink fortifying red wine. First Snow Fall 0136 - 20151122It has continued softly falling all week – and if you come back in April I suspect I shall be moaning about how tedious and miserable it all is, but for now every morning’s fresh touch of white is exciting. Apparently the Swiss buy their little ones skis for their first birthdays, so that they can learn to navigate the slopes as they start to navigate walking. It seems fitting, then, that our first snow has fallen the week our little Addie took her first bumbling, drunken-old-man steps, not too far from her first birthday (for which she will not be receiving skis. Sorry, Adelaide, no future winter olympics career for you)(frankly, the chances were slim anyway with her heritage).

Driving Tim to work this morning was magical: sloping white rooftops, pine trees with snow mounds on the branches, every tree and twig turned from the warm glow of Autumn a few short weeks ago to cold, shimmering crystal. The light is now grey but the white of the snow on the fields makes it brilliant, crisp, other-worldly. It feels as though we have stepped inside a fairy tale.

Our new digs

So, now that we’re in our new home, we’d love to have you over for a drink. For the majority of you that’s not likely to happen in the real world for the near future (although visitors are always, always welcome) so for now, let’s make it virtual.

Our apartment complex is named (the google tells me) after a prominent Swiss social worker, one of the first the country had. (For those that don’t know, this is my previous trade, so it seemed fitting.) We’re on the fifth storey (there are six all up) of a (not exactly garish but definitely not tasteful) yellow building. Sadly, our lift-into-apartment experience appears to have been a one off and we now schmuck it into a common area with everyone else on the floor. One set of neighbours is an older Swiss couple (they were delighted with our girl’s name, and have taken to calling her Heidi, an abbreviation of the German version of her name, Adelheid) and the other is, we think, a younger Italian couple (based on nothing other than their names and a glimpse of one of them in the lift). But enough neighbour stalking – come on in!

First Snow Fall 0146 - 20151122Ordinarily, we’d usher you into the kitchen and shove Tim’s cocktail of the moment (usually gin, usually too strong) into your hand. But as this is Switzerland, you need to derobe first. Just to the right of the entry way is the ‘shell cupboard’ (Tim’s words) – a wardrobe that holds shoes, scarves, beanies, coats, gloves; all the outerwear. It’s usually a world of fluster as I’m running late for somewhere or other and, as usual, underestimating the weather and my child’s patience.

Walk down the short corridor and you’ve got our open plan kitchen/dining (to the left) and living room (to the right). Please feel free to grab some virtual salumi and olives from the virtual table on your way through.First Snow Fall 0015 - 20151122Tucked in the door in the far left above is our laundry slash general dumping zone. It includes all our recycling, which currently consists of a disgraceful number of wine bottles. From the windows here, you can see the twin spires of the St Leodgedar (built in the 1600s, it’s one of Switerland’s most significant churches apparently), some reflections on the lake if you squint, and of course a bunch of neighbouring apartments. First Snow Fall 0012 - 20151122To the right of the living room we have an indoor balcony, a type of sunroom (in a wintery, wintery land). We’ve got views of the Alps (as well as a bunch of miscellaneous rooftops and a bus depot) from those windows as long as the day is clear, which it appears is rare this time of year. First Snow Fall 0013 - 20151122First Snow Fall 0014 - 20151122It’s been fun moving our existing possessions into a new space. The bookshelves, as I’ve mentioned, have been the only real fail as they are 15cm short for the new ceiling and are subsequently reclining sideways (I like to imagine them doing so sleazily, with one arm supporting their heads). It makes no difference – the girl’s current fave activity is to pull all the books out and throw them on the floor (repeating as quickly as I can reshelve them) (Sisyphus much?).

Moving onward, there’s another corridor that branches off: to the left, the guest room (currently known as Lauren’s room, due to our recent visitor), straight ahead the baby’s bathroom and then to the right, our girl’s room. There are no snaps of Lauren’s room primarily because we rarely go in there, and it is a haphazard mess of power tools and miscellany. Also, you should really come, stay, and see it for yourself.

As always, my Ademalaidey’s room is my favourite. Which is a good thing, given the number of grumpy hours we spend there.

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First Snow Fall 0138 - 20151122If we head back now towards the entry and turn left – let’s top our glasses up on the way through the kitchen, shall we? – we’ll hit our room. I once went on a tour of a friend’s new house and she described her boudoir as the room ‘where the magic happens’. If ‘magic’ is going to bed before double figures, reading trashy detective fiction and being woken in the fives (if we’re lucky) by the baby, then the description also stands for me.First Snow Fall 0150 - 20151122 The door you can see there leads out to sunroom balcony, and subsequently we also have views of the Alps slash bus depot from our room. Which makes for a scenic, and occasionally noisy, experience.

The number one thing about our apartment, in a land where storage is not common and for people who don’t come with cupboards, is the walk-in-wardrobe just off our room. It’s large enough to hold (messily, because I’m a pretty lazy housewife) everything we own and it will also fit Adelaide’s travel cot for when we have a full house (say, this coming Christmas). I sort of feel bad that it’ll be her bedroom, but console myself with the fact that we could be putting her in the storage room downstairs.

First Snow Fall 0154 - 20151122Our dirty laundry aired, let’s make our way back to the living room for the afore mentioned olives and drinks. Do your best to make sure it’s in real life soon, yeah? Lauren’s room is waiting for you!

 

Old friends and turnips

We’ve moved! Tuesday was the day of action, and we were up bright and early to see our final sunrise over the illustrious Rotkreuz train station.

Auntie Loz's Visit 0002 - 20151116We had an early handover at the new apartment, followed by the unloading of the container that had made its way from Australia, registering in the new Canton, moving our possessions from the temporary apartment to our new home, and of course cracking into celebratory champagne. Once again the relocation people were fantastic and there were only a few hiccups (a delayed customs clearance due to our apparently suspicious sofa, a few breakages, bookshelves too large for our new home which are now stylishly placed on their sides as opposed to their upright position, and I’d bought only one bottle of bubbles). We’ve spent the week settling in and getting familiar with both our new space and the local neighbourhood. Thus far, we’re delighted.

Tuesday also marked the arrival of my friend Lauren, en route from living in the States back to Australia by way of a four month holiday. I’d not seen her since the baby was tiny, and I didn’t stop talking for approximately three days.
Auntie Loz's Visit 0030 - 20151116Her help was indispensable with the move: there was assistance with crappy Buykea trips, assembly of furniture, recycling runs and distracting of baby. Most importantly, though, she was able to mediate between Motsy and I in furniture and art placement debates and therefore circumvent an early divorce. I’ve missed her.Auntie Loz's Visit 0031 - 20151116Due to the move, we’ve mainly hung out in Lucerne, but we made a trip out sans baby last weekend. My hometown, Wagga Wagga, used to hold an annual festival called the Gumi. The Pidgin word for ‘inner tube’, the Gumi race featured a bunch of homemade crafts – made not only from inner tubes but also plastic milk bottles and the like – floating down the Murrumbidgee River. Half the town would build a craft and sail, the other half would line the banks of the river and cheer (and throw water bombs, flour bombs and – I am sure I remember school mates doing this – pig poo bombs). Unsurprisingly perhaps, the Gumi was cancelled due to insurance, environmental and health and safety reasons some years ago. It is remembered fondly by Wagga people of my vintage, and has always seemed to me to be one of the perks of small town life: quirky low budget festivals that unite the townsfolk long after the event itself has ended.

Thus, when we heard about the Räbechilbi Richterswil, it was hard to resist attending (although the day beers at the brewery happily situated around the corner from our new home nearly put a stop to it). Based in the town of Richterswil on the banks of Lake Zurich, the festival held every November is an ode to…the turnip. Featuring 26 tonnes of the vegetable, school children spend weeks carving prior to them being turned into lanterns for one night of turnip-illuminated fun. There are turnip lamps dotted throughout the town, and a turnip parade. We hardly knew what to expect, but Loz and I headed there to check out the action. Once embarking from the train, we made our way into the tiny town which was indeed alight with the humble root vegetable.Auntie Loz's Visit 0035 - 20151116

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Auntie Loz's Visit 0037 - 20151116Root vegetables, and cauldrons of Glühwein. We did our civic duty and indulged in a few glasses.Auntie Loz's Visit 0043 - 20151116

Auntie Loz's Visit 0047 - 20151116It was, indeed, so fein.Auntie Loz's Visit 0156 - 20151116The parade was a trifle confusing. It featured large billboards with turnips fixed to them in a variety of images. There didn’t appear to be a particular theme and we watched disney characters, local monuments and a variety of creatures – including an octopus with an unlikely pair of lips – go past. I also suck at taking snaps and we were vying for a good position with a ten year old boy, so you’ll excuse the blurry images.Auntie Loz's Visit 0170 - 20151116

Auntie Loz's Visit 0174 - 20151116We had no idea who this guy was. The local sans-beard Santa? The father of twin Ponnochios?Auntie Loz's Visit 0177 - 20151116The kissable Octopus, followed by Caspar. Auntie Loz's Visit 0183 - 20151116

Auntie Loz's Visit 0191 - 20151116This turnip-embossed monument had an operating fountain dispensing water (sadly, not Glühwein).
Auntie Loz's Visit 0202 - 20151116Darth Vader made a (somewhat lacklustre) appearance. Auntie Loz's Visit 0211 - 20151116We argued about this guy – Loz thought it was Hugh Jackman in his Wolverine days. I asked a local and he confirmed it was an actor but the language barrier prohibited us finding out exactly who it was. Either way, the parade was paused for a turnip to be replaced (or a blackhead to be picked, if you’ll excuse our Glühwein fuelled humour).Auntie Loz's Visit 0221 - 20151116We didn’t stick around for the grand finale (which looked like the ‘What, Me Worry?’ Mad Magazine guy) which may have been a good thing if the pig poo bombs from the Gumi were anything to go by. Instead we lumbered back to the new apartment, where we’ve spent the rest of the week carving a new home for ourselves.

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To Autumn

While our ‘relocate to Switzerland’ conversations were still in progress, my parents wasted no time whatsoever in planning their visit. I suspect we were largely an excuse to see a few other countries they’ve always wanted to explore, but much to our amusement they had their flights booked well before we had confirmed ours. They arrived almost exactly one month after we did, and after acclimatising here they travelled through France, Spain and Portugal before spending their final week with us.

I’ve racked my brains, and I’ve not spent as much concentrated time with my folks since they visited me in Ireland; prior to that, when I lived at home (and we don’t want to consider how long ago that was). Given this, and the fact that we had only just moved ourselves and were settling in to our new home, I wasn’t sure how it’d go. The answer: it went fine and grandparents are awesome.

Our days were simple. Early coffee (sometimes plural, depending on her wake up time) and breakfast, after which I’d get to do whatever I liked (which was usually stare into space) while my parents played with the girl. They’d then head off for the day, or we’d mosey out together, after which we’d reconvene for more space staring slash playing. Motsy would get home, we’d do her night routine (bath, book, bed) followed by our night routine (dinner, wine, chocolate). We also had the luxury of a few nights out sans baby which of course we spent talking pretty much exclusively about her and her latest tricks (saying ‘uh-oh!’ is the current highlight).

For their final weekend we spent Saturday in Zurich, lunching and wandering the streets. We hit a shamelessly tourismo yet delicious beer hall, where Tim and I ate meat on a sword. There was also pork knuckle and rosti and everyone was happy.

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For Sunday lunch we visited a restaurant perched on the hills above Zurich, between a vineyard and a forest. The foliage, while thinning (like someone’s hair), remains stunning.

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Zurich 0031 - 20151102I knocked back a cheeky prosecco while Adelaide tried her hand at stealing post-halloween pumpkins.

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During my first stint at uni (literature and philosophy. Useful. Hence subsequent degrees) I took many poetry classes, one of which included ‘To Autumn‘, by Keats. A work that describes beautifully the rich fullness of the season, it also has undertones of melancholy: the inevitability of the passage of time, the fleeting nature of life as season is overtaken by season, and ultimately of our own mortality. I’ve always loved Autumn, and I love how this poem describes it. This year, it feels much more poignant than it has previously. Partly because of the assault on our senses that we’ve not experienced before, but also because we’re acutely aware how much is changing in our little lives, and how quickly. It wasn’t a melancholy car ride home from leaving my parents in Zurich, but it was somewhat sombre as we contemplated that the next time my folks will see our girl, she’ll be walking and talking (hopefully more than misplaced uh-ohs). There’s a new niece or nephew arriving across the other side of the world early next year, bringing newborn cuddles we’ll miss. We’ve not spoken to dear friends in some months and when we do, it’s the headline events that make the conversations, not the minutiae of the day to day which although simple and ostensibly dull makes life broader, fuller, familiar, more meaningful. While we didn’t exactly get our Keats on – we’re not lamenting the (literal or metaphysical) winter ahead – we did pause, heartstrings pulled a little, as we watched the leaves float down.

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This morning we had to go to the Zug authorities to advise them we’re moving to Canton Luzern. Our lovely Swiss relocation consultant met me bright and early, and we were discussing the glorious colours and the misty mornings. Although English is not her first language, and neither of us are even remotely in the Keats ballpark, I thought her simple words summed up the sentiment perfectly: ‘the mountains just now are so beautiful, I want to cry’.